Carbon profile wheels require a valve extender (included) in order to inflate the tire. Install the valve extender onto the tire valve stem before installing the tire on the rim, making sure the extender is firmly attached and properly sealed to prevent air loss.

Do not use any other valve extender than the one supplied. Carbon Profile wheels should be used with 700c diameter tires only. Tubular rims can accommodate 24-28mm tire widths while clincher rims can
Accommodate 25-28c width tires DO NOT use wider or narrower tires as you risk rim/tire damage or an accident may occur. Carbon wheels should not be used for cyclocross (or off paved surfaces) or tandems.

The rider weight limit for all-carbon models (tubular and clincher) is 100 kg.
A component that squeaks or rattles can be a sign of potential problems. Make sure all mating surfaces, components are clean, all bolt threads are greased or treated with appropriate thread lock and tightened to Profile Design specifications and all components are properly sized to fit together.

If you continue to experience creaking or sounds using the Profile Design component then call Customer Service tel 952207347. Periodically examine all surfaces of this Profile Design component (after cleaning) in full sun for any small cracks or “spot” wear. stress” (such as welds, seams, holes, points of contact with other parts, etc.).
If there are cracks, no matter how small, stop using the part immediately and call customer service.

Whenever you install any new component on your bike, be sure to safely ride or ride close to home (with your helmet), where there are no obstacles or traffic.

Make sure everything is working properly before you go out or go for a run.

Racing (road, mountain or multi-sport) places extreme stress on bikes and their components (as it does on cyclists) and significantly shortens their lifespan.

If you participate in these types of events, the life of the product can be significantly shortened depending on the level and number of races. The “normal use” of a component can differ greatly between competitive and non-competitive uses, this is the reason why at the professional level they frequently use new bicycles and components each season, in addition to having their bicycles serviced by professional mechanics.

Special attention should be paid to regularly checking your bike and its components to ensure their safety.

A number of factors can reduce the life of this component to less than its warranty period. Rider size and/or intensity and style, high mileage, rough terrain, abuse, installation, sweat, improper adverse environmental conditions (such as salty air or corrosive rain), trip damage (especially if the bike and components are disassembled and then reassembled) and collisions or accidents can contribute to the reduction of the life of these wheels. The more factors that are present, the more the life of the component is reduced.

All warnings and care instructions that refer to metal parts apply doubly to carbon fiber parts (with the exception of corrosion), as they are very delicate and can easily be damaged during use or shipping.

The use of a torque wrench is highly recommended as it is very easy to over or under tighten any carbon part and avoid the result of cracked parts or worse, a part that breaks during use.

The edge should be routinely checked for cracks, wear marks, surface deterioration, delamination, finish chipping or carbon chipping and especially when it is a carbon component or contacts where it mates to a non-carbon component. Once the surface of a carbon part is compromised it can break. Do not apply lubricant to any carbon surface where it comes in contact with another carbon or metal part. After an accident parts of carbon may be fractured since carbon does not bend like a piece of metal. However, they can still be fixed and must be replaced. Call customer service and ask about our “Accident Replacement Policy”.

Normal wear and tear on the wheel(s) and wheel components is not covered by the warranty. These components may include (but are not limited to): rims, spokes, nipples, bearings, pawls, and hubs.

Do not use tyres narrower than 25c profile on clincher rims.

Correct tyre fitting is essential for your safety and the fulfilment of the Profile Design warranty.

Before mounting your tyres make sure that the bead and sidewall are clean and free of gouges, dents or scratches and that the tyres and tubes are new, free of dirt, cuts, cracks and scuffs.
Do not use brake pads that were previously used on wheels with an aluminium brake surface.

Read and follow the tyre manufacturer's instructions and air pressure.

Do not use tools other than removable plastic tools to install or remove tyres from your wheels.

Be aware of the maximum/minimum pressure rating stated on your tyres when inflating them (using a pressure gauge). Do not exceed 125 PSI, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES regardless of the pressure shown on the tyre.

Under-inflating tyres (under 95psi) can not only lead to punctures but can also cause damage to the rim and/or tyre especially during driving on poor road conditions.

DO NOT use air compressors or petrol pumps to inflate tyres as there is a possibility that you could over-inflate the tyres.

DO NOT use tubeless tyres on these wheels

This chart shows the type and common Category of Rim, Caliper or Disc Brake, Intended Use, and the ASTM Intended Use Classification Guidelines are integrated below for the 2013 model year PROFILE RIMS:

Whenever possible, in addition to industry standard descriptions, this PROFILE Owner's Manual references American Society for Testing and Materials ("ASTM") Standard Classifications for Bicycle Use to describe the intended use, along with common terms.

See ASTM Designation F 2043-09 at

For clarification, PROFILE DESIGN defines "Tri/Road ASTM Condition 1" as a set of conditions for operating a bicycle on a regular paved surface where the tyres may unintentionally lose contact with the ground. This riding style does not include riding on unpaved surfaces where there are jumps. Condition 1 bicycles that do not have any suspension.
ASSEMBLY / removing the cassette

Profile Design wheels are designed specifically for SRAM, Shimano or Campagnolo 11 or 10 speed cassettes (Campagnolo cassette requires the installation of a new hub).

Make sure you have the correct cassette for your hub, speed and manufacturer.

These Profile wheels include a spacer to fit a 10 speed cassette to the rear hub. Profile has interchangeable hub bodies and the wheels can alternatively be retrofitted to a later date if required.

Remove the cassette ALWAYS use the chain spanner on the smallest chainring to loosen the band lock ring, or the aluminium spline may be damaged. Follow the cassette manufacturer's instructions (SRAM, Shimano or Campagnolo) for specific assembly and disassembly information.

Quick fasteners

Your design profile wheels are equipped with quick release fasteners (a cam device). If you are unfamiliar with quick release skewers or if you have never seen a proper demonstration of how they work, ask your dealer to help make sure you know how to mount and remove your wheels safely or you can follow the owner's manual that came with your bike (which usually explains the procedure for front and rear wheel removal in more detail). Failure to properly lock the quick release can result in a serious accident causing injury or death. Always check to make sure your wheel fasteners are securely fastened before riding your bicycle.

The quick release uses an internal cam and "cam" action to hold the bicycle wheels in place. Turning the nut with one hand and turning the quick release lever with the other hand until the lever is apparently tight (like tightening a regular nut and bolt), but does not lock the wheel.

Using this improper method can result in the wheel disengaging from the bicycle while riding and this leads to an accident and serious injury or death.

When driving on wet roads your braking distance can be several times longer than under ideal dry conditions. This is especially true with carbon brake surfaces and carbon rim brake pads. Wet roads can also cause sand and dirt to accumulate on your brake pad surfaces, damaging the carbon braking surface. take extra precautions when riding in these conditions. Be sure to clean the brakes of sand or dirt on the brake pads after the bike has been ridden on wet roads.

Make sure that the tyres not only fit properly to the diameter and width of the rim, but also fit inside the bike frame and fork in both side-to-side and vertical dimensions. Pay special attention to this issue when wheels and tyres are used on several bikes. The tyre frame/fork clearance should never be less than 5 mm in all directions.

ll repairs or rectification MUST BE PERFORMED BY A PROFESSIONAL wheel specialist mechanic. The technique and skill necessary to properly centre a wheel is far beyond the scope of these instructions and beyond the ability of most riders.

Your wheels have been pre-stressed, tensioned and carefully ground before shipment and should stay true and roll under normal driving conditions. Make sure the wheels do not have a vertical "hop" or side-to-side "wobble" once you take them out of the box. They may have been damaged in shipping.

Over time or in abnormal riding conditions you may need to re-tension your wheels for optimum performance. (Typically wheel re-tensioning needs to be done after 1000-2000 kilometres) If you are unsure how to properly perform this service or you do not have a spoke tension meter or wheel grinding or wheel stand with worn out gauges, please take your wheel to a professional bicycle mechanic, or contact Profile Design.

Remove and clean the quick-release fasteners from the wheel and check the tightness of the tension nut and cam lever. Clean the wheel with mild soap and water. DO NOT use pressure washing or water spray. Pressure washers can force grease out of the hub and bearings causing rapid deterioration of bearings and hub longevity.

Be sure to remove any dirt, grime, dust, dust, grease or lubricant that might get in the wheel brake track. Make sure your brake pads are clean and free of aluminium shavings, small stones and other debris accumulated from riding. Wash the brake pads with fine sandpaper or a small file. Care and cleaning of your wheels and brake pads will extend the life of the wheels and help protect the braking surface. Do not use harsh chemical cleaners on rims or braking surfaces.

Cleaning or mounting a tyre is a good time to closely inspect the wheels under good lighting conditions. Look for any abnormal bulges or lumps, areas where the clear coat is raised, any signs of frayed carbon fibres, cracks, deformations, or holes. This inspection needs to be carried out on a regular basis, but especially (1) after any accident or after being hit by road debris or potholes, (2) when the tyres are removed, (3) before a race (4) after shipping or air travel (5) when the tyres have punctured while riding (6) when the wheels make strange noises such as clicking, squealing, cracking or other noises.

If you ship (or fly with) the wheels of your bicycle and, or, the wheels must be transported you must have cases to prevent damage. We suggest a single, heavily padded wheel in each bag. Also, after shipping or flying, the wheels should be inspected (see "Inspecting Your Wheels") and (see "Centering Wheels") or shipments to avoid damaging them or causing them to come off center.

All new clincher clincher wheelsets come with two rim tapes. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER RIMBANDS WITH YOUR WHEELS than the one specifically intended for these wheels.
You must use rim tapes with all clincher rims.

Please note that you cannot use the rim tape/strips with tubular rims.

You must use a thin plastic or thin fabric wick to ensure proper installation of the tyres. DO NOT use a thick fabric/cloth rim flange as this may prevent the tyre from seating properly on the rim.

Make sure the rim tape is wide enough to cover the open spoke holes yet not interfere with the bead seat of the tyre. It should be of similar thickness, width and material as the original tape supplied.

Start the rim strip installation by aligning the valve hole of the strip with the valve hole of the rim. Carefully stretch the rim strip (so that it does not tear) around the rim to make sure the strip is centred on the rim and is covering the spoke holes. Finally, you can go back to make sure that the rim valve hole is visible through the valve hole of the rim strip and is not obscured or partially covered by the rim flange. DO NOT use tape or glue to secure the rim strip.

Inflate the inner tube sufficiently to keep its shape. Insert the inner tube valve through the valve hole in the rim valve so the valve is straight. Then install the rest of the tube between the rim and tyre. Make sure the tube is not bent, twisted or wrinkled once it is placed inside the tyre. Tubes are also sold in different diameters and widths. Make sure that the size of the tube is very similar to the size of the rim you are using. Using the wrong size tube could lead to bunching or stretching of the tube and a blow out resulting in an accident and injury.

Install the second tyre rim over the rim working the tyre over the rim by moving your hands away from the valve hole on each side of the wheel as the tyre rim seat.

If the last section of the tyre rim does not fit by hand, use a PLASTIC tyre leaver VERY CAREFULLY to seat the last section of the tyre on the wheel. Be careful not to catch the inner tube with the tyre leaver or the tyre rim as the last section of the tyre is seated. Make sure that the inner tube is not under the edge of the tyre anywhere on either side, as this will burst the inner tube once you inflate it. Inflate the tyre to 40-60 PSI and check to make sure the tyre is positioned correctly and that the inner tube is not trapped between the tyre and rim. Deflate the tube and reinstall the tyre and there should be no problem.

Inflate the tyre to full pressure and check the tyre as it rotates to make sure the tyre is sitting squarely on the rim. Also check the rim line (usually a small rib on the tyre just a few millimetres above the rim edge) of the rim to ensure that the rim is seated evenly and evenly all the way around the rim on both sides. Do not exceed 125 PSI for ANY clincher tyres regardless of the pressure listed on the tyre.

ENCOLADO to assemble tubulars
Gluing tubular tyres is not as difficult as most people think. With practice and experience, you can easily and safely glue your own tubulars without worry. If you are doing it without tubular gluing experience you should consult your local Profile Design dealer.

A great way to learn how to glue tubulars is to not only consult your local Profile Design retailer but ask to see how they glue tubulars. These instructions will give you a concise idea of the steps needed to glue your own tyres, but is not a substitute for seeing a professional do it.

What you will need:

  • 01. Wheels 38 TwentyFour 58 TwentyFour or 78 TwentyFour
  • 02. Tubular tyres of your choice (tyres must be between 24 to 28 mm wide).
  • 03. Centring, bracket to hold the wheel.
  • 04. Medium emery cloth (gr 120)
  • 05. Foot pump with pressure gauge
  • 06. Tubular glue of your choice. You must use tubular glue to attach your tubular tyres to your Profile wheels Tubular design. DO NOT USE 3M Fast Tack or any glue that is not compatible with carbon wheels.
  • 07. solvent such as alcohol or acetone.
  • 08. Similar glue application brush or tool
  • 09. Latex gloves
  • 10. Rag cleaner

Installing new tyres is easier if you pre-stretch them for the first time when fitting your new tubular tyre to your wheelset. To do this: Place the valve hole of the wheel with the wheel rest against your legs and, without glue on the tyre or rim, place the valve through the valve hole and start working the tyre onto the rim moving your hands away from the valve each side of the wheel as you seat the tyre. Apply even pressure as you work the tyre onto the rim with your hands. You will need to use your thumbs to roll the last section of tyre onto the rim - Do not use a demountable OR TIRE SEATING TOOL ON this last section of the wheel. Once the tyre is seated, go around the wheel and lift/align the tyre making sure the base tape sits evenly on the rim. Using the floor pump, inflate the tyres to within 10 to 20 psi of their maximum pressure (do not exceed 140 PSI for tubular rims). After inflating, we recommend letting the tyre sit for at least several hours, but overnight is ideal.


Deflate and remove the pre-stretched tyres from the previous stage and put them in a clean and dry place. Take one of the wheels and place on the grinding stand. Using the solvent, clean the tyre mounting hoop surface making sure it is free of dirt, grease or glue from previously glued tyres.

Application of the glue to the rim and tyre

Wearing latex gloves (or a similar covering on your hands/fingers) will help keep your hands clean and will make the gluing process easier and cleaner.

Using the acid brush, apply a thin layer of tubular glue on the rim tyre bed. having the rim on the grinding stand is useful as applying this layer. Make sure you have covered the edge of the entire surface, but have not put any of the glue on the braking surface. We recommend 2 coats of glue with a wait of about 30 minutes for the first coat to set before applying the second coat of glue. Follow the glue manufacturer's recommendations (especially as to the temperature range in which to use the glue).

Keeping gloves on, use the foot pump to inflate the tubular tyre until the base tape falls off and is exposed (this is normal). With a similar application method, use the epillo to apply a thin layer of glue on the tyre base tape smearing the tub. Be sure to avoid getting glue on the tread or sidewall. As with the rim procedure, apply a second coat of glue with a 30 minute gap between coats.

An effective method of gluing is to apply the first coat to the rim, then apply the first coat to the tyre. When the 30 minutes wait for the rim to finish, give a second coat to the rim and on the tyre.

Once the glue becomes tacky, but is no longer wet to the touch, it is ready to mount the tyre on the rim.

Do not attempt to install the tyre until the glue is dry to the touch.

If you want to install the tyre using a method similar to the one you did to pre-stretch the tyre in the previous step. Place the wheel valve hole with the wheel rest against your legs.

Try to avoid contact with the glue and keep the glued part of the tyre touching the rim sidewalls. Support the tyre on the top and front of the wheel and start the installation by placing the valve stem into the valve hole. Using your hands, begin working the tyre onto the rim by simultaneously pushing the tyre down while slowly lifting and placing the tyre on the rim while working your hands away from each other and towards the floor. apply even pressure as you work the tyre onto the rim with your hands. You will need to use your thumbs to roll the last section of the tyre over the rim - Do not use a demountable OR TIRE SEATING TOOL ON THIS LAST SECTION OF THE WHEEL. Once the tyre is installed inflate the tyre to approximately 80 psi. There are two things you are looking for: that the tread seats directly when you spin the wheel and that there is even exposure of the base tape on both sides of the rim. In the latter case, view the underside of the tyre and check that the same amount of base tape shows on both sides. Correct any imperfections and lift or rotate the tyre in the areas that need alignment.

Another method is to roll the tyre on the ground while pressing down on the wheel with your body weight, which sometimes centres the tyre without much effort. Once the tyre settles evenly, use the pump to inflate the tyres to within 10 to 20 psi of its maximum pressure (DO NOT EXCEED 140PSI). Allow the glued tyre to sit for 24 hours before use. Use factory recommended glue as soon as possible.

Profile Design warrants all products for two years from original purchase. For more details on Profile Design's warranty and Accident Replacement policy please visit:
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R. We do not recommend riders over 95 kilos to use wheels with factory spokes. Heavier riders need to change the spokes to give the wheels more stiffness.


R. If the wheels meet all the requirements set by the UCI.


R. No, as indicated on the wheels, carbon clincher wheels are limited when it comes to putting pressure, we recommend not to put more than 9kilos of pressure because in hot conditions the pressure increases and the wheels can crack. The models of wheels for tubular have no limitation of kilos only those imposed by the manufacturer of the tubular.


R. No, carbon rim wheels have special brake pads, we recommend you use Profile Design brake pads for carbon or another recognised brand for carbon.


R. Most of the time if you apply a little lubricating oil to the spoke heads that noise goes away.


R. Yes, we have a separate adapter available.


R. These wheels should be handled by skilled mechanics, carbon wheels require special tools and knowledge.